Mexico's Rock Star

So, Ann made it and we had an uneventful, 24 hour bus trip to Mexico during which, for the record we stopped several times for food. We had been led to believe, by those who had made this trip in years past, that absolutely no food existed between Chetumal and Mexico City. That we’d better bring lots of snacks with us or be forced to sit, suffering, while our driver sped through the hills of Mexico, unsympathetic to us gringos who didn’t get the memo to pack a lunch. However, we stopped not once, not twice but about four times for food on the way to Mexico City, much to Anne’s VERY vocal surprise.

We, and about a billion other Mexicans (the papers said four million but clearly the reporters were only reporting the average population of one metro car) arrived on the afternoon of December 11. Once we were a few hours outside of Mexico City we began to see crowds of people walking, pushing strollers, riding bikes and standing in the backs of trucks—all on their way to reach Mexico City for December 12. What’s so special about December 12 that would motivate people to walk, ride and bike into Mexico in the freezing cold? (well, lower 70’s). Mexico’s own rock star, Our Lady of Guadalupe. You have to imagine… The conditions these people travel in are pretty extreme. They cook and sleep in the streets. They carry images of Our Lady of Guadalupe on their back, decorated with lots of Christmas garland (which I found kind of amusing. I mean, they’re going to see the real image, right? Is it so they remember what she looks like? Some actions just get lost in translation). They sing songs, they chant, they wave torches and… machetes? It’s like nothing you’ve ever seen before. You can only marvel at the crowds and wonder what could possibly be the motivation for all of this?

Here’s the story behind the crowds. Centuries ago, when the missionaries were first starting to work in Mexico, they were having little success among the Indians there. Catholicism was seen as a European practice, something for the “gringos”, the white men. The Indians persisted in worshiping many gods out of fear, some of their practices were pretty gruesome and included human sacrifice. Then, a little Indian by the name of Juan Diego saw a lady on Tepeyac Hill who told him to tell the Bishop to build a Church there. Juan Diego relayed the message and the Bishop was skeptical that a poor Indian would have any sort of heavenly vision and asked for a sign. On December 12, the lady appeared again, this time she instructed Juan Diego to gather roses that were growing on Tepeyac hill (out of season) and take them to the Bishop as proof. When Juan Diego unfolded his apron full of roses, the Bishop was shocked to see not only the flowers but also an image of the woman!

In the image, Mary the mother of God appears as an Indian. Now, I don’t remember all of the symbolism, but her dress is that of a princess and the black sash around her waist indicates that she is carrying a child. When the image was examined closely (which you can’t see on this reproduction) the reflection of Juan Diego kneeling down is seen in her eyes. The experts can’t figure out how it appeared on the apron. The image has remained in the church for centuries and has shown no sign of aging or damage, even after a bomb was set off right underneath it! The real miracle though, was that after the image appeared the Indians couldn’t be baptized fast enough! Juan Diego spent the rest of his life as a missionary to his own people and millions were baptized as a result of the miraculous image. As a missionary, I just found this incredible! When one of my students was baptized last year it made my day, I can’t imagine millions!

It’s obvious that Mexico still considers Our Lady of Guadalupe their Queen. When we entered the square of the Basilica the night of the 11th we were surrounded by millions of people trying to just catch a glimpse of the image. People were camped out, piled up in the square ready to stay overnight. It reminded me of the vigil at World Youth Day, only the people here were packed much much tighter than any campsite I’ve ever seen! Entering the Basilica, I’ve never been in a crowd like that before in my life! All day people were performing before the image, offering “mananitas”, the songs that are performed in honor of a birthday. The crowd was so intense; there were times that I’m pretty sure I wasn’t standing on the ground. We opted to leave that night and return the next day.

We arrived at the square the next morning to find hundreds of Indians in native dress dancing, burning incense and praying in the square in front of the basilica. They would dance for hours and then stop and all kneel down before the Church, praying. It was really incredible to see that centuries after Juan Diego, the importance that this image had on every Mexican’s relationship with God was still being recognized. We attended noon mass in which Indians dressed in their native costumes were offering incense and flowers while chanting, drumming and blowing horns. Can you imagine that during mass? It was incredible! During the offertory, the Bishop came and sat in a chair in front of the altar. Then, a little man dressed as Juan Diego ran up in front of him carrying a bundle while the drums beat in the background. With a flourish, he released the roses he was carrying to reveal a replica of the image… The drums beat, everyone cheered and little Juan Diego stood at the altar with his image for the rest of the mass. An Indian standing in front of the choir held a horn which he blew during the elevation of the host and chalice… it was unlike any mass I’ve ever attended!

While in Mexico I realized just how far God will go to reach His people… staring at this image of Our Lady which was created miraculously, that has been honored for centuries, just helped me understand that what we teach to the kids on San Pedro isn’t just another subject. We’re not just doing fun crafts and songs because it keeps them off the streets (or away from gators), we teach them about God because He is all-powerful… and has the power to change their lives for eternity. We’re not the first people to have proclaimed the Gospel and we won’t be the last. We’re just one of the many in the Church militant, but we’re serving a God who can accomplish anything! Whoa. That was a little reflective. I’m spending too much time around Ali.

My friends and I return to San Pedro on Sunday, keep us in your prayers!